02.06.23
Since we have been in Israel for just less than one month, and since this trip is so significant in history, both my own, and world history, Kat suggested that I post my personal blog posts here on Travel Younger in case you do not follow me on my Norm Bour Facebook page. I hope you enjoy it.
Jan 23, 2023: Tel Aviv
Shalom and welcome to Israel!
I’ve been wanting to visit most of my life, but truthfully, it was not at the top of my list. But here we are in the capital, Tel Aviv, after two very, very early morning wake ups to get here. One was for a 0600, 9 hour bus ride from Albania to Athens, and then a 0730 flight to Israel. We had two great surprises in the short time we’ve been here. ONE, was the EASE of getting through the airport and the “lack” of security! I expected a search of our luggage when we landed and soldiers with guns everywhere, but neither happened. We zipped through passport control with ease. MAYBE it’s a way to make visitors feel more welcome and secure, not sure.
The second surprise—no SHOCK—was the food prices here! Mind you, we HAVE been spoiled between Turkey and Albania, but $8.00 for a bagel floored me, along with $23 for a Sweet and Sour Chicken at a Chinese restaurant. A small ice cream was $5, and compared to many countries, including the US, they are not outrageous, but by our skewed standards they were. Kat and I shared a large chicken salad for dinner which was reasonable. We DID luck out and have a room directly across from the beach for three days, so we’re liking that, along with temps pushing close to 70°.
Jan 24, 2023: Tel Aviv
7.6 mi of walking, plus one bus ride, and we hit the Sarona food court, where they had about 100 different food courts and eateries, then we bussed to the city of Jaffa, and hit the flea market, the historical clock tower, and the marina, and finished up at the Carmel fruit market, where we shared an amazing lunch pita platter with Syrian bread. There were hundreds of vendors there, including one of the most impressive bread & pastry shops we’ve seen, and we also stored up on my nut supply for my treat bag. Amazing! Overall Tel Aviv is a cool town, but I think 3 days is about the right amount of time to spend here– almost like what we should have done in Bangkok! But it was SO nice to be in a t-shirt all day.
Jan 28, 2023: Jerusalem
We’ve been in Jerusalem for about 48 hours, and yes, we are safe. There was an incident yesterday which we had no knowledge of until friends asked about us, but all is good.
It’s a dynamic town with a much different feel than Tel Aviv. Getting off the train we noticed that the buildings were older and very authentic and the people much more conservatively dressed, with more covered clothing, and more rabbis and Hasidic Jews with their signature hats, long coats, and hair curling from their heads. Our apartment is just a few minutes from a huge food bazaar called Machaneh Yehudah, both a blessing as well as a curse! So many temptations, lots of pastries and ethnic foods, as well as a good selection of fresh fruit and veggies. Prices seem just a bit less expensive that Tel Aviv, but certainly the highest we’ve experienced over our four years of travel.
Yesterday we walked to the Old City about 25 minutes away, and they have dedicated boulevards for just trams and pedestrians, so it was a pleasant walk. Viewing the wall as we approached was surreal and we strolled the entire perimeter, passed by all the eight gates, and absorbed as much of the history as our minds could handle. Seeing the Dome of the Rock, Damascus and Lion’s Gate, and walking into what is reputably the site of the Last Supper and King David’s Tomb, was a lot to take in. Kathleen and I took lots of pictures but we both agreed that they do not come close to capturing the feel and the presence that we felt. We intentionally did not go INSIDE the walls since that is a day in itself, but will do that this week. Inside is the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulcre, the site of the burial and resurrection of Jesus, and much more.
As we left the Old Town and returned to our apartment we noticed that almost all businesses were closed, and that was a little past 3:00 p.m. We knew that things close at sunset for Shabbat, but most close much earlier, so we had to scramble to get some dinner and food supplies for the following day. Our AirBNB host invited us to Shabbat dinner this afternoon so that will be very special and demonstrates the kindness of people we have met all over the world.
The city is a true magnet for Christians, Muslims, and Jews, and of all the places we have visited over our travels, this is unique in many ways. More to come.
Feb 1, 2023: Jerusalem
Here in Israel, and surely here in Jerusalem, Shabbat, their Sabbath, which starts Friday night at sundown and continues till Saturday at sundown, is taken very seriously. This is the only place we have been to that is ruled by religion, and starting from Friday night everything shuts down. Businesses are closed, no public transportation, and no cars on the street. There are some exceptions, but its eerie quiet and except for not having access to restaurants, grocery stores, or coffee shops, its kind of refreshing. We walked through the normally bustling marketplace/ bazaar, and instead of stands with products displayed, we were able to view the graffiti on the metal doors in front of them. The citizens spend the day at home with family and enjoy a Shabbat dinner after sunset on Saturday when all returns to normal.
We did find the Israel Museum open and found it fascinating. I am drawn towards ancient history and archaeology museums, and this one had displays starting way back, 10,000 BCE, with exhibits showing everything that happened after that. They also had something that is iconic and something I never thought I’d see: The Dead Sea Scrolls.
These scrolls were written mostly on animal hide between 300BCE-100AD and document Jewish and Hebrew manuscripts that were incorporated into the Bible. They were discovered inside caves between 1946-1956, and at the time their historical significance was not fully understood and they were sold multiple times for peanuts. The clay jars that held them protected them from the elements (somewhat), but it wasn’t until technology allowed them to be unfurled and studied under specialized scopes that they were able to decipher them. Some of the text is in Hebrew, some in Aramaic, and almost every chapter of the Old Testament is incorporated into the Scrolls. The room that holds them is very classy and in the middle was a large circular display case with the scrolls behind glass, but we found out that these were copies, and the REAL ones were in smaller cases around the room.
No question, this was a visit that stood out from many others and there is still so much to see here.