We went through some deep woods, and saw more of the gorgeous rice fields and majestic hills, driving roads that could have been inspirations for roller coaster rides! Up, down, left, right, our driver, Eddie, was worth every dollar we spent, since we felt safe and had peace of mind. When we finally got to Amed, we were pleased to find that our little home away from home for 4 days was on the second floor of a nice hotel with a full-on view of the Bali Sea. The nondescript room was very inexpensive, and even included breakfast, but the best thing was the view as we looked straight on at the largest volcanic mountain in Indonesia, Mt. Agung, at about 3,000 m (9000 ft), just 36 kilometers away. I found myself transfixed on the first evening, just watching the clouds flow across the face and the sunlight constantly changing the lighting effects. It is still considered active, but has not released since 2019.

The north coast of Bali is a scuba diver’s dream, but that is not something that Kat and I are into. I think I’ve given up the idea, and even snorkeling is feeling less comfortable than it was years ago- not sure why. Regardless, we rented some snorkeling gear on our third day there and even just staying close inside the harbor was beautiful, amongst multicolored fish and coral. This was our first time snorkeling in Asia, and the coral was different than what we were used to in Hawaii, and some of the fish were as well. We were pleased to see the tiny brilliant translucent turquoise ones like we saw in French Polynesia.

During our few days on the north shore we had some good meals at incredibly low prices, but had a hell of a time finding a coffee shop that offered cappuccino! The formerly sleepy seaside getaway is undergoing a transformation, with new drainage being added and streets widened. The way we see it NOW is probably much different than what it was just a few years ago, and if we came back here in three years, no doubt it would be busier and more bustling. I think I liked Amed better than Kathleen, and for me the best part was Mount Agung, along with the very warm water just a few feet from our door.

Eddie picked us up and brought us back to Sanur, we took a different way and got to see more of the Eastern coast of Bali, including a very cool viewpoint with a shrine overrun with monkeys that were as wild as you would expect. On our way back we made note of some places to possibly return to, including the up and coming town of Candidasa, and both Kat and I are pretty determined that we will surely return to Bali again.

Meanwhile, as we finish up our last few days in Sanur, we will close out our visit on a tiny island about 30 minutes away via Fast Boat, called Nusa Lembongan. We will be there for 10 days in a nice villa, surrounded by some amazing cliffs and pristine beaches, and next door is another island, Nusa Penida, which offers another special treat: swimming with Manta Rays. We’re in!