02.02.20
We had some issues in Thailand almost from the beginning, primarily due to poor air quality, too many people, and feeling uncomfortable with the food and language issues. We resolved some of those issues by leaving Bangkok and visiting smaller towns, like Chiang Mai and Chumphon. They both went a long way to making us more comfortable and we liked Chumphon so much that we are returning next week for 10 days or more. We found a small hotel with cabins right on the sand for less than $20 per night, so we’ll use that time to focus on writing and other obligations, mixed in with getting into the water several times a day.
After our debacle getting our Vietnam visa- and losing a $300 flight in the process- our second attempt was more successful. We reviewed the rules over and over applied for an i-visa (or e-visa) which cost us $90, and sweated it out till the day before we left when it finally arrived via e-mail. Printing a hard copy was required and at the airport we still had to deal with some uncertainly since the visa and the flight ticket and our passports did not all match: some included MIDDLE NAMES, and others did not. Luckily the gate agent got approval from our arrival airport and in about 90 minutes we landed in Vietnam, country #31 for me and our 13th in less than one year.
We came to Ha Long Bay primarily for one reason: the beauty of the rocks just off the coastline.
Ha Long, with about 150,000 people, is not one of the largest cities, but sneaks into the Top 20 per the latest census. The local area known as Cat Ba (where we stayed) is certainly in the top 10 Most Beautiful Cities and is known for their national parks and island rocks; the city of Ha Long is considered the number three most beautiful place in Vietnam.
The island rocks are called Karst Pinnacles and are limestone outcroppings of rock usually comprised of seashells from millions of years ago that has been eroding ever since. They are like icebergs in that much of the structure is beneath the surface and the rock is typically very porous and prominent with caves. The erosion of the rocks over the years is what turns the surrounding waters green which is diluted by the blue colored sea water. When we awoke on our first morning we went up to the third floor outside balcony and there they were before us. And they were spectacular!
Even though they are the highlight of our short (six days) stay here, they are not the only one. This smallish town is just the right size and for the small amount of vehicles on the street, they are large and quite wide. Everything is clean, everyone smiles when they see us, and the best news? The food is amazing! Our first night we went to a local restaurant just a short block away, read the English language menu (!) and after dismissing sandworm, false dog and bullfrog, we settled on yummy noodle dishes, one with seafood and the other with beef. When they brought the food we realized that one meal was easily enough for two and both meals, plus two beers, was less than $10 US dollars.
Their local currency, the Vietnamese Dong, is considered one of the weakest world currencies and to put that into perspective ONE US dollar is equal to 23,000 Dong. When I cashed in just $30 US we got over 500,000 Dong, all in paper bills, so the conversion took some time to get used to. The bills are plastic coated and there are no coins, which is nice. The sensation of being a “Dong Millionaire” is quite a thrill, but just a coffee can set you back 60,000 Dong in a few minutes!
When I stop and realize WHERE I am, I succumb to a bit of soul searching mixed with nostalgia.
When I was a teen the Vietnam War was in full swing and was a fixture on the daily news. Back then there were only three prime TV stations and few other outlets. The war, one of the most controversial in US history, took almost 58,000 US lives. Most of the soldiers went with great reluctance and experienced some of the most modern and deadly warfare of that time. I knew many that went and died, and I was a fortunate one since the mandatory draft ended just one year before I turned 18 and in the prior year my enlistment number was very low.
Call it luck, call it timing, but for those that weren’t lucky or were born at the wrong time, my heart can feel their presence here, which is quite surreal. And for those that went and did return, thank you for that. The fact that I can experience the glory of this amazing country is such a blessing and one taken with daily gratitude. We are staying in the top one third area of the country which was formerly all Communist ruled.
I hope you get to visit Vietnam and I give it high praise. We won’t get to Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi or Da Nang, but we will likely return. But not in winter, since our timing was off here with temps in the 60’s- and no long pants! Live and learn.
